News: The low-down on London's Darwin & Wallace

13 November 2018
Simon Duff, Darwin & Wallace, London, UK

Simon Duff, the executive chef at Darwin & Wallace, is passionate about creating tasty, scratch-cooked dishes using fresh, quality ingredients. Previously executive chef at the acclaimed restaurant and café Peyton and Byrne, Simon’s menus reflect the all-day nature of the venues – from sociable snacks to share over creative cocktails, to hearty roasts, as well as vibrant brunch dishes which draw on his Australian background.

How would you describe your cooking philosophy? Keep it simple, fresh, seasonal and tasty – and know where it came from.

When did you first become interested in ethical, sustainable cooking? I have always been interested and actively involved in it, from growing up on a property in Australia where we had gardens, chickens, bees etc., to my first chef job where we went out mushroom hunting before work, set up gardens, raised pigs for sausages, specials, etc., to now when I can really influence every detail of what we use and where it comes from.

In Darwin & Wallace’s TL&CC restaurant profile, it is described as “redefining what a pub can be.” Can you elaborate on this? From a food side of things, pub food does not need to be boring or a side offering. Making great tasting, fresh, house-made and interesting food in equal offering to amazing drinks in an environment with great design and comfort for all.

Your menu focuses on the seasons. Can you explain the reason behind this and why seasonal eating is important to you? Seasonal eating is when food is naturally growing and at its best, so it provides the best tasting products for dishes, as well as using local products and not using forced farming methods. The only way to ensure this is to change menus seasonally, use the best local products available to us and celebrate them.

Darwin & Wallace has a 3-star rating from the Sustainable Restaurant Association (SRA). Why is sourcing fish sustainably so important? Over-fishing or not using environmental practices has a huge impact on us all. By making sure we source all our fish sustainably, at all times, we can promote underused species to reduce pressure on the over-fished stocks, limit our impact on the environment and promote better farming practices so that hopefully there is a future for all.

What is your favourite dish to cook or ingredient to work with, and why? I was always told not to have favourites, but I really enjoy making a good curry. The amazing levels of flavour you can build in such a simple dish always amazes me. Also taking lesser-used ingredients and trying new ways to use them, until a beautiful dish is created.

Lastly, what are your top tips for home cooks wanting to be more sustainable and environmentally-friendly? Take time to really pick products according to the seasons (why eat tasteless imported strawberries in October when there are really amazing local plums, for example?) and let supermarkets know how you feel about the gross overuse of packaging and the need to provide loose products and eco-friendly options. Every little bit you can do makes a difference to drive them to stop this really crazy and unnecessary waste.

View Darwin & Wallace’s TL&CC profile here.

News: Other things you need to know

  • October saw Old Gesher, Israel restaurant Rutenberg hold its first annual Growers & Producers Dinner. The restaurant invited everyone involved in its process, from the suppliers who raise their beef, poultry and lamb, to their photographer, to get to know each other over food and drink. “For us, it is part of creating a community around the restaurant,” a spokesperson explains.
  • Australian and World editor Jill Dupleix is hosting a Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery stall at the Carriageworks Farmers’ Market in Sydney, Australia on 1 December. Carriageworks’ Creative Director Mike McEnearney and Australian contributing editor Lee Tran Lam will be dropping by, along with the mighty Better Read Than Dead bookstore, with books for sale; and Michael Ingrey, general manager of the National Indigenous Culinary Institute (NICI), which receives 5% of the proceeds of sales to help them train indigenous chefs in Australia. From 8am to 1pm, bring family, tell friends, all welcome!

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