While working abroad in London as a sous chef for Stevie Parle, Elizabeth Mason travelled extensively to Marrakesh and Istanbul, developing a love of cooking with spices. More recently, she was appointed head chef of the prestigious 121BC in Soho, Hong Kong, where she was able to develop her own unique style, shaped by Italian influence. Now head chef at Song Kitchen, Mason uses her international experience to create a unique and exciting menu that fuses Middle Eastern, Italian and Mediterranean flavours with modern Australian fare.

Song Kitchen is dedicated to supporting victims of domestic violence. What inspired the decision behind this and how does the process work? Song Kitchen is owned by YWCA Australia which provides advocacy, programs and services for women, families and communities, including domestic violence support. In 2015 the YWCA were looking to maximize the return on the ground floor of their Wentworth Avenue premises, and after canvassing a number of options decided a restaurant and bar was the best commercial use of the space. After a two million dollar upgrade, Song Kitchen opened early in 2017.

What are some of the challenges and rewards of this profit-for-purpose system? Our challenges are similar to any hospitality business; getting the right people, making sure that we deliver a quality experience and turning a profit. The rewards are getting to do something you love, seeing our customers have a great time and, if we get it right, making a profit that goes to a deserving cause.

Can you describe a special or stand-out moment since Song Kitchen launched two years ago?
Any day that the restaurant is full of happy, contented diners.

What types of dishes will diners find on your summer menu? I’m a big lover of Turkish food, so I’ve created a more Australian version of manti, filled with smoky eggplant and dressed with tangy yoghurt sauce. There is a delicious spelt and sweet pea tabbouleh to accompany the chicken, as a main course, and throughout the menu you will find plenty of summer vegetables and aromatic spices to lift and bolster the palate.

What are your seasonal star ingredients? There is a lot of fun to be had with peas, peaches, potato and tomato right now. We will be highlighting these fruits and veggies, but keeping it simple. For example, I’m offering fried peas dressed with za’atar and lemon for a tasty bar snack.

Tell us about yourself. Prior to being appointed at Song, I worked with the Vini group and, as it expanded, was appointed head chef at 121BC, Soho, Hong Kong. It was this role that brought my skills together, learning to successfully lead a team, and providing my first opportunity to develop and establish my own style.

Vegetables are my great love, something I learned working for Vini. Not just appreciating the simplicity and deliciousness of fresh garden produce, but knowing how they have been utilized traditionally and historically. These lessons are now the foundation of the menu at Song Kitchen.

I also worked under Stevie Parle in London, which taught me not to be afraid of spice. As his sous chef, he sent me to Marrakesh and Istanbul to immerse myself in the culture of spice, to learn from the market stalls and street food which flavours could be used to the greatest effect. This really set the tone for my sensibilities and style. Elegant, simple dishes with punchy, detailed flavours are the unifying theme.

Do you have a favourite dish on the menu right now? It’s a tie, actually. I’m doing Spanish mackerel gently poached in olive oil, dressed with chermoula and served with a celery, fennel, coriander and pomegranate salad. It’s fresh and crunchy with flavour depth and bite.

I also love our pretty, crisp rosewater meringue and earthy pistachio ice cream, sandwiched together and sitting on top of a thick dollop of salted caramel, finished off with Persian fairy floss. It’s everything naughty and dainty you could wish for.

News: other things you need to know

• TL&CC Collective restaurant Northcote has just wrapped up Obsession 19, its annual gastronomic food festival. This year’s festival took place from 18 January to 3 February, and featured eighteen world-class chefs, including two fellow TL&CC chefs – Matt Orlando of Amass, Copenhagen and Andrew Wong of A Wong, London. Northcote Executive Chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen also cooked on two separate evenings.
• If you’ll be in Victoria, Australia this March, don’t miss the Regional World’s Longest Lunch at Lardner Park, Gippsland. Trevor Perkins, chef/owner of TL&CC collective restaurant Hogget Kitchen, is set to join Mark Briggs of Sardine Eatery & Bar and Rob Turner of Northern Ground to create a seasonal three-course feast celebrating the region’s cuisine. The event is part of the 2019 Melbourne Food and Wine Festival. To find out more, including how to book, click here.
• This Sunday, 10 February, Copenhagen residents can enjoy a special lunch at Amass. A Lunch with Anders brings Noma’s former sommelier Anders Frederick Steen to Amass for a Sunday lunch inspired by his own wines. Guests will be treated to seven different types of wine, two rounds of snacks and three food servings, family style. Click here for more information and to book.