Natalie Goble, chef and co-owner of Lowell's, beautifully describes the story behind this mouth-watering dish. "Most winters in Sonoma County bring several flushes of delicious, earthy, wild mushrooms, beginning shortly after the first fall rains with giant porcinis that pop up under the thick bed of oak leaves in our yard. I make a loop on our two acre property, my eyes glued to the ground, looking for even the slightest lift in the leaves that will signal the tender budding boletes – so sweet and mild that they are best eaten shaved raw with just a sprinkle of good salt and olive oil. I carry a small paring knife and a basket that is soon overflowing with the meaty mushrooms that will find their way into scrambled eggs, pastas, and salads in our kitchen at home as well as Lowell's. In Italy, mushrooms are as ubiquitous in the dishes of the regions in which they grow as pasta itself.

"This recipe features four of the most common mushrooms found during the deep winter months here in Northern California: black trumpet, hedgehog, yellowfoot, and candy cap (which have an incredibly savoury maple flavour)."

LOWELL’S WILD MUSHROOM PASTA

Serves 4-6

• 1 cup cream
• ¼ cup fresh or dried candy caps
• 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for serving
• 1/8 tsp nutmeg
• 1 medium leek
• 2 tbsp olive oil, plus more for serving
• 1 quart cleaned mixed wild mushrooms (excluding candy caps)
• 3 cloves of garlic, minced
• 1 tsp chilli flakes
• 1 thyme sprig
• 1 batch of Lowell’s everyday pasta dough (see below)
• 2 tbsp butter
• ½ lemon, juiced
• 1 tbsp chopped parsley
• salt, to taste
• ½ cup stock (mushroom, chicken or vegetable) (optional)

Set a large pot of water to boil. In a small saucepan, add cream and candy cap mushrooms, bringing to a simmer (never a boil). Simmer for 30 minutes and strain. While the cream is still hot, add to a high-powered blender with the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano until the mixture coats the back of a spoon. Add a few grated scrapes of nutmeg and set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, slice the leek lengthwise, beginning where the pale green starts (discard top third dark green section). Working cross-wise, slice into half-moons 1/8-inch thick. Place in cold water to clean any grit or sand, then strain. Heat a large heavy-bottomed pot or sauté pan on medium-high, then add olive oil. When the oil begins to shimmer, add remaining mixed mushrooms and sear until golden brown. Add leeks, cooking until tender for about another five minutes. Add garlic, chilli flakes, and thyme, cooking for another 2-3 minutes, stirring often. Add salt to taste.

Cook pasta in boiling water until al dente – around three to five minutes – and strain. While the pasta is cooking, add ½ cup stock of your choice or pasta water to mushroom mixture. Allow to reduce until most of the liquid is evaporated, then add butter, lemon, chopped parsley, and taste for seasoning. Add pasta to mushroom mixture, adjusting seasoning again if necessary. Toss to evenly distribute mushrooms. Place pasta in individual bowls, spooning mushrooms over the top. Drizzle with candy cap cream, additional grated cheese, and good olive oil.

LOWELL’S EVERYDAY PASTA DOUGH

• 6 egg yolks
• 250g ‘00’ flour
• 50g semolina flour
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 1 tsp salt

Combine egg yolks, olive oil and salt in a bowl. In another bowl, whisk flours together.

On a clean surface, pile your flour mixture and use your hand to create a “well” in the middle for your egg mixture to sit in.

Pour the egg mixture into your well and, using either your hands or a fork, slowly start to mix in some of the flour, little by little, until it forms a dough. Add water as needed.

Knead the dough on a floured surface until every thing is well incorporated and the dough looks smooth. Cover in plastic wrap and allow to rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes before rolling out. Roll out and cut into the pasta shape of your choice.

If you’d prefer, you can use a stand mixer. Add the flour mixture in your mixing bowl. Combine egg yolks, olive oil, and salt in a separate bowl and whisk together. Add egg mixture to the flour in the stand mixer. Using the dough hook attachment, let it mix until the dough comes together into a ball. Add water as needed.

Top Left: Natalie Goble, chef/co-owner, Lowell's (Sonoma, California, USA)