Trofie with English peas, tendrils, ricotta, and mint

Photo credit: Ed Anderson From The Foreign Cinema Cookbook by Gayle Pirie and John Clark, published by Abrams Books, © 2018.

Serves 4

• 2 cups (290 g) fresh English peas (about 2 pounds/910 g pea pods)
• 5 tablespoons (90 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
• 2½ teaspoons kosher salt, plus more as needed
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• ½ pound (225 g) dried trofie pasta, or penne
• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• ⅔ cup (165 g) fresh ricotta cheese
• zest of 1 lemon
• handful of pea tendrils
• 10 fresh mint leaves
• ½ cup (50 g) toasted breadcrumbs (optional) see below
• Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for grating

Sort the peas into smaller and larger ones.

In a small saucepan, combine the larger peas, 2 tablespoons of the oil, ½ teaspoon of the salt, ½ cup (120 ml) water, and the sugar.

Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat and simmer until the peas are tender but not falling apart and are still bright green, about 8 minutes. Let the peas stand off the heat for a few minutes, then transfer them, along with any liquid remaining in the pot, to a blender or food processor. Pulse the peas 6 to 7 times to make a coarse purée. Taste and adjust the salt, if needed. Set aside.

Bring a large pot of water to boil. Add 2 tablespoons of the remaining oil and the remaining 2 teaspoons salt. Cook the pasta according to the package instructions, stirring occasionally, adding the smaller peas to the pasta 1 minute before the end of the cooking time. When the pasta is al dente, drain the pasta and peas, reserving ¼ cup (60 ml) of the cooking water.

Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the pasta and peas, the reserved pasta water, the pea puree, and ⅓ cup (80 g) of the ricotta cheese, saving the rest to spoon on top. Reduce the heat to low and stir the pasta vigorously to evenly coat it and meld the flavors. Taste and adjust the salt as needed. Stir in the lemon zest and pea tendrils. Toss until well combined.

To serve, divide the pasta among 4 warm bowls and add a spoonful of the remaining ricotta cheese on top of each. Scatter the mint leaves over the tops. Sprinkle with the breadcrumbs, if using, and finish with a generous grating of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Serve immediately.

We enjoy this spring pasta with a dry, vibrant rosé, such as the Clos Cibonne Tradition from the Côtes de Provence. Made from tibouren grapes with a bit of grenache, the wine has floral, orange peel, and saline notes.

Toasted Breadcrumbs

Makes about 1 cup (100 g)

• 1/4 loaf day-old rustic bread
• Pinch of kosher salt
• About 3 tablespoons olive oil

Set a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Trim away the crusts from the bread (discard them) and cut or tear the bread into bite-size pieces. Pulse the bread in a food processor until it is in irregular crumbs about the size of peas.

Transfer the crumbs to a medium bowl and toss them with the salt and enough oil to lightly coat them. Bake until the crumbs are evenly golden brown and crunchy, 10 to 15 minutes. Let the crumbs cool completely, then store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 to 3 days.

Galye Pine & John Clark chefs & co-owners, Foreign-Cinema