Local and regional sourcing with this week's feature restaurants

17 October 2019

Provenance

  • WHO: Michael Ryan & Jeanette Henderson, owners
  • WHAT: Thoroughly modern, highly regional Victorian restaurant
  • WHERE: 86 Ford Street, Beechworth, Victoria, Australia

“We create contemporary food from quality regional produce with a focus on seasonal awareness. Michael Ryan's many trips to, and deep interest in, Japan is reflected in the techniques and flavours in the menu.

“We make a point of quizzing our suppliers on the provenance of the produce we are buying from them. We also source un-farmed and foraged produce when we can such as wild leaves and mushrooms. We love local produce because it is so fresh. – when you can phone a supplier and have them pick the fruit for you on the morning of delivery – that is very special.

“Our menus have always been vegetable focussed, and we don't use cream in any of our savoury courses. This is not approached from a health perspective, but because it suits our style of cooking. Instead of cream, we make many of our sauces with our own house-made soy and nut milks. All of our meats are free-range, as are the eggs we use.”

Looking for the perfect place to stopover on the drive between Melbourne, Canberra and Sydney? The accommodation at Provenance is located in the quiet courtyard at the rear of the property in what was once the stables that serviced the bank. Renovated in a modern style with Asiatic touches throughout. The rooms, located in the centre of Beechworth, are walking distance to the many shops, cafés and restaurants in the town. For more information click here.

To read more about Provenance, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.


The Riverford Field Kitchen

  • WHO: Guy Singh-Watson, founder
  • WHAT: Dedicated to making seasonal organic veg the star of every plate
  • WHERE: Wash Barn, Buckfastleigh, Devon, UK

“Vegetables are at the heart of what we do and we are 100 per cent organic certified by the Soil Association, the UK’s largest organic certification body. We want to give people good, fresh, flavoursome, ethically-produced food and are dedicated to growing and eating seasonally – our food tastes great because we harvest and eat in tune with the British seasons. Everything that we grow is selected for flavour; our carrots taste so good because they are selected and grown to be so. Our set menu changes daily depending on what is in abundance in the surrounding fields, truly celebrating seasonal produce.

“As well as using vegetables from the farm, The Riverford Field Kitchen has its own garden metres away from the restaurant. Our head gardener works her green-fingered magic and grows a variety of crops for us to have fun with in the restaurant: fresh herbs, radishes, spicy rocket leaves, unusual tomato varieties, strawberries and raspberries for summer desserts. Growing our own not only allows us to serve vegetables that are truly fresh from the soil, but also lets us experiment with using every part of the plant, leaving minimal waste.

“Working with the freshest, most flavoursome organic ingredients straight from the soil, we hope to show just what’s possible when you put vegetables at the heart of your plate. We’re not vegetarian, but meat and fish are used as a seasoning and organic seasonal vegetables are the star of every dish.”

Event:

Elly Pear’s Green Feast : Wednesday 20 November

"Bestselling author Elly Pear will be joining us at The Riverford Field Kitchen to host an organic veggie packed feast featuring recipes from her latest book Green: Veggie & Vegan Meals.

Elly is passionate about encouraging people to cook from scratch and try new things. Her bright, inventive, meat free cooking is influenced by world cuisine but always with an eye on the local greengrocers. Find out all you need to know about this event and many others here."(https://fieldkitchen.riverford.co.uk/events/).

To read more about The Riverford Field Kitchen, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.

The Riverford Field Kitchen (Buckfastleigh, Devon, UK)The Riverford Field Kitchen (Buckfastleigh, Devon, UK)


Shepherd

  • WHO: Shepherd Elliott & Sean Golding, chefs/co-owners
  • WHAT: A New Zealand restaurant that aims to deliver inspiration & fun to lovers of great eating
  • WHERE: 1/5 Eva St, Te Aro, Wellington, New Zealand

“We work directly with local vegetable farmers in the Wellington area. We routinely get boxes of vegetables each week depending on what the farmers have grown, not what is currently fashionable. This is important to us because it not only creates a home for things that other places may reject but it also gives our chefs an opportunity to challenge themselves and work out how to use something they might not have come across before. We work with a local pig farm and utilize the whole animal – again, our opportunity to use parts that aren't commonly seen. We try our utmost to use only seasonal produce, however we give ourselves the ability to use out of season items by pickling and preserving almost anything we can. This lets us create interesting and otherwise unavailable options at our whim and cut down on food waste.

“Shepherd currently works with a not-for-profit community garden called Kaicycle in Wellington. Through regenerative agricultural practices they take under-utilized areas and grow local food for local people while training future urban farmers and growing beautiful productive landscapes in our city. As part of our team bonding and staff training, we often visit our suppliers. We took a trip to Martinborough and over three days we visited numerous wineries, a gin distillery, a free-range pork farm and an eco-farm. This gave us all the incredible opportunity to meet the people behind the products, see exactly where everything we get comes from. This experience empowers our staff and helps our diners understand our philosophy.”

To read more about Shepherd, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.

Shepherd (Wellington, New Zealand)Shepherd (Wellington, New Zealand)


The Whale Wins

  • WHO: Renee Erickson, chef/owner/author
  • WHAT: A bright, airy spot that roasts up the best bounty of the beaches & farms of the Pacific Northwest
  • WHERE: 3506 Stone Way North, Seattle, Washington, USA

“We strive to give our guests a feeling of abundance and celebration no matter what the occasion is – a memorable experience with warmth, delicious food and great care.

“We are passionate about choosing quality ingredients to roast in our wood-fired oven. We like to keep things simple (but interesting!) to really highlight the amazing things that happen when wonderful ingredients are roasted with such high heat in such a special way.

“As a chef, I rely on the continued abundance of local seafood – not only to feed our community, but also for the financial security of my 120 employees and the many purveyors of oysters and other fresh seafood on my menus. I feel a deep responsibility to advocate for policies that will keep seafood a strong engine of our local economy."

To read more about The Whale Wins, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.

The Whale Wins (Seattle, Washington, USA)The Whale Wins (Seattle, Washington, USA)


Neolokal

  • WHO: Maksut Aşkar, chef/co-owner
  • WHAT: Contemporary takes on Anatolian cuisine
  • WHERE: Salt Galata Museum, Arap Cami Mah. Bankalar Caddesi 11/1 - Karaköy/Beyoğlu, Istanbul, Turkey

“At Neolokal, I’m trying to adapt my traditions to today’s needs and refine them in a way that can easily be accepted in the future. If we don’t sustain our traditions, we cannot have a sustainable future. In order to sustain the traditions, one needs to respect the ingredients and techniques of past – not changing but enhancing them, elevating them by using the same quality product that has been used for centuries – instead of getting lost due to the ease of availability throughout the year. Otherwise we lose our traditions day by day and there are no reference points for the younger generation. For me, the traditional flavour is that which reminds me of my childhood. Refining a recipe with modern understanding, yet enhancing the flavours using the right products is what I call Modern Traditions, which promise to sustain for the future.

“We seek suppliers that have been producing the same quality products for generations. We work with farmers who focus on sustaining almost extinct products and we use the guidance of Slow Food's Arc of Taste catalogue where we can source products with good, fair and just farming, thereby sustaining not only the products but also traditions, habits and cultures.”

To read more about Neolokal, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.

Neolokal (Istanbul, Turkey)Neolokal (Istanbul, Turkey)


Did you know?

16 October 2019 is World Food Day

Achieving Zero Hunger is not only about addressing hunger, but also nourishing people, while nurturing the planet. This year, World Food Day calls for action to make healthy and sustainable diets affordable and accessible to everyone. At the same time, it calls on everyone to start thinking about what we eat.

Every year, a large number of events – from marathons and hunger marches to exhibitions, cultural performances, contests and concerts – are organized in around 130 countries across the world to celebrate World Food Day.

Find out here whether there is an event near you and how you can help make healthy eating and zero hunger a way of life.

World Food DayWorld Food Day


Pipis with asian herbs and lotus rootlet pickle from Level One's head chef, Josh Kim

17 October 2019

South Australian pipis with soft Asian herbs and lotus rootlet pickle

Chef Josh Kim, Level One


Ingredients:

  • 350 g pipis (or other similar shellfish)
  • 50 ml verjuice
  • Vietnamese mint
  • Thai basil

Lotus rootlet pickle:

  • 8 tbsp chilli flakes
  • 6 tbsp coriander seeds
  • 2 tbsp chopped garlic
  • 300 ml vegetable oil
  • 500 ml rice wine vinegar
  • 1 jar lotus rootlet

Method: Place the all of the pipis (we choose local Goolwa Pipis, but any pipi or similar shellfish will do!) into a hot pot with the verjuice for 3 minutes.

After cooking, add the Vietnamese mint and Thai basil and wilt.

Place the cooked pipis with juice in a bowl and garnish with extra herbs and the lotus rootlet pickle.

Head Chef Josh Kim, Level OneHead Chef Josh Kim, Level One


From a seasonal masterclass, sailing on a tall ship to Sunday feasting and rooftop beehives – we’ve got it covered!

10 October 2019

Cafe St Honoré

  • WHO: Neil Forbes, chef director & Joe Simpson, head chef
  • WHAT: Cafe St Honoré serves the best Scottish ingredients in an authentically Parisian interior
  • WHERE: 34 Thistle Street North West Lane, Edinburgh, Scotland

“We pride themselves on producing everything in-house using ingredients sourced from local producers and suppliers. We feel every restaurant should almost have its own eco system – from where you buy your milk and butter to your wine merchant. Keeping things near to us gives us far more control over what we buy. You are eating your region and its history and more importantly, you are keeping money in your local economy – rather than buying from somewhere that has no connection. Many of the people I buy from have long histories in farming but others have a wonderful story to tell about how they left a highly-paid job in the city to start a sheep farm, or left university to start foraging for chefs, or that they just love growing things and seeing the name of their small business on our menus! The least we can do to help is shout about how good and important small-scale farming is right now, as opposed to mass, factory-farmed and shoddily-produced food.

“Everyone has the right to eat good, ethical, inexpensive, local food and to be able to buy it from a good shop or market stall where, when something is in season, it is at its cheapest and can be purchased and used or preserved in other ways.”

Seasonal Masterclass : Winter “Join our Chef Director Neil Forbes on Saturday 23 November for our final masterclass of the year as we celebrate winter and all of the wonderful ingredients available. Think venison, roots, game, stored fruits, winter greens, and spices. The class will cover a whole host of recipes, tips and techniques with lots of tasters throughout. The class will be followed by a two-course lunch of roe deer with organic roots and wilted greens, followed by apple tart tatin and cinnamon ice cream.” Don’t miss out – to book, call 0131 226 2211 or email eat@cafesthonore.com

Get to know Chef Neil Forbes a little better in this week’s TL&CC Q&A!

To read more about Café St Honore, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.


Fat Pig Farm

  • WHO: Matthew Evans, owner/chef
  • WHAT: A working farm with an open kitchen for Friday feasts
  • WHERE: Near Cygnet, Huon Valley, Tasmania, Australia

“Nearly everything we cook is grown and reared on our small farm in Southern Tasmania, from our fat Wessex saddleback pigs, our small beef herd, our own milk and dairy (from Elsie and Myrtle, the Guernsey and Jersey respectively), eggs and a daily harvest from the seventy garden beds and numerous fruit trees in our flourishing market garden. We sometimes add occasional other meats or things we produce on site, such as lamb, goat, and the like. Our menu is entirely driven by what we harvest each week.

“Despite the name of the farm, our menu is mostly plant-based, offering about twenty different tastes or dishes, of which usually only around four are meat-based. We want to show people what well-grown, fresh vegetables taste like.

“On the farm we focus on soil health: a healthy soil creates delicious, nutrient-dense plants which, in turn, feed us. This also means planting windbreaks to encourage biodiversity, fencing our riparian zones to create wildlife corridors and slowing water as it moves across the landscape to regenerate our paddocks for livestock. These initiatives are only possible by working closely and communicating with other regenerative farmers."

Fat Pig Afloat November 2 at 12:30 p.m - 2:30 p.m.

"We’re setting sail with Saturday lunch cruises down the Huon River aboard the good ship Yukon. Rescued from the bottom of a harbour near Copenhagen, the Yukon is a beautiful eighty year old Scandinavian tall ship that now sails on the tranquil waters of the Huon River. With delightful skipper David Nash, you can hoist the squaresail, learn more about the ship’s amazing history, or just sit back and feast on a picnic basket filled with farmhouse goodness from Fat Pig Farm."

Click here to book your place.

To read more about Fat Pig Farm, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.

Fat Pig Farm (Huon Valley, Tasmania, Australia)Fat Pig Farm (Huon Valley, Tasmania, Australia)


PRINT.

  • WHO: Adam Block, owner & Gary King, chef
  • WHAT: A Hell’s Kitchen restaurant with the mission: if it’s grown in the region, eat it in season
  • WHERE: 653 11th Avenue, New York, New York, USA

“PRINT. goes above and beyond with sustainability outside of our restaurant walls. We volunteer and collaborate with several food non-profits including; Wellness in the Schools, Just Food and Growing Growers.

“Our rooftop garden is utilized not only for growing herbs but also as a space for hosting groups from various organizations for the purpose of urban farming education. Additionally, we make an effort to get out of the city and visit our farmers in the region to better understand sustainable farming methods and create a deeper connection with the products we work with in the kitchen. All in all, we strive to have this truth in our sourcing practices and love for local farms to come out in our ingredients – and ultimately on the plates – for a distinct seasonal and regional dining experience."

New staff at PRINT. “We are proud to introduce two new staff to PRINT. Our new Service Director, Frankie Gabrielle, brings his in-depth beverage and service experience to the PRINT. dining room. We also have a new Pastry Chef, Sofia Schlieben who has worked for Thomas Keller, Michael White and Jean Georges, was pastry chef at Michelin-starred Veritas and then Dovetail, MIX and The Loyal. She now joins PRINT. And is incredibly excited to showcase her skills in such a thoughtful and seasonal restaurant."

You can try your hand at one of Sofia's recipes with this week's sublime Brown Butter Madeleines!

To read more about PRINT., visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.

PRINT. (New York, USA)PRINT. (New York, USA)


Copper Pot

  • WHO: Ashley Davis, chef/owner
  • WHAT: The quintessential local restaurant with a modern European heart
  • WHERE: 105 Victoria Street, Seddon, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

“Our menu is inspired by chef/owner Ashley Davis’ time spent living in and exploring Europe and features unique regional dishes that capture the essence of towns and villages across the continent, offering our guests the opportunity to take a tasting road trip across Europe at their whim. Being true to European tradition, the menu is driven by the seasons, the availability of quality, fresh local produce, honey from our own rooftop beehives, and respected producer relationships.

“While our supplier network is extensive, we are constantly refining our reliance to reflect our ideology of using what is best and nearest to us. Our farmers are all within Victoria, if not within a one hour drive of the central city. We deal directly with farmers, which often requires more thought and planning but is hugely rewarding for the relationships that are forged.

"We have a general policy to move away from protein-centric menus and we support farmers with strong environmental ethics. We happily use blemished market produce, and choose to celebrate it in its natural form.”

"Join us for a true Sunday feast – Euro Style – first Sunday of every month!" "In Europe, Sundays are for getting together with friends and family for laughs, good times and a lunchtime feast. So we’ve decided to bring a bit more of Europe to Seddon by way of a Euro Style Sunday roast lunch. Over four courses we’ll be serving up a selection of Sunday roast classics from the continent with a modern twist that will to put smiles on faces, have chatter echoing across the dining room and full bellies heading off into the afternoon. Bookings are advised but walk-ins are possible if seats are available."

To read more about Copper Pot, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.

Copper Pot (Seddon, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia)Copper Pot (Seddon, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia)


Los Galgos

  • WHO: Julián Díaz, restaurateur/sommelier
  • WHAT: Traditional Argentinian restaurant & cafe
  • WHERE: Av. Callao 501, C1022AAF CABA, Buenos Aires, Argentina

“I like to represent Buenos Aires – a place with so much history and tradition – where we can make traditional cuisine with good products.

“We worked hard to recover old dishes such as frogs, Venetian liver and the recipes that our grandmothers and great-grandparents prepared, which leads us to rely on local and seasonal products – working only with wild fish, eggs and free-range poultry as well as all the bio-products that we can. We prepare new options on our menu every day and always devise a vegetarian and low calorie option.

“We work with ACELGA, a restaurant association with an important waste reduction and separation program, as well as awareness of the use of water and electricity. Additionally, we lead one of the largest actions to use seasonal products for restaurants and in the homes called MESA de estación."

To read more about Los Galgos, visit their Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery profile here.

Los Galgos (Buenos Aires, Argentina)Los Galgos (Buenos Aires, Argentina)


Discover what makes Neil Forbes, chef/director of Edinburgh's Cafe St Honoré tick in this week's TL&CC Q&A

10 October 2019

Neil is one of Scotland's most passionate chefs who describes cooking as an "emotional experience that uses all the senses". Born into a family of chefs, it was his granny's soup that first inspired a young Neil to get behind the stove, and inspires him still. Like the soup, the menus at Cafe St Honoré make the most of good, honest ingredients cooked simply. He also regularly demonstrates his skills at a broad range of events across the UK and writes a monthly recipe column in the Scotsman’s Saturday magazine.


What is your idea of perfect happiness? Motorcycles.

What is the purest thing you have ever tasted? Oyster.

What is the best thing you can do with your hands? Plunge a spoon into a dish and taste it.

What was your first experience with sustainable eating? Eating my dad’s homegrown veg.

What do you love most about what you do? Working with my fantastic team.

What do you consider the most overrated ingredient? Micro herbs.

What’s the best thing you’ve ever been taught? Customers visit a restaurant to enjoy themselves; don’t be too precious.

Is there anything you don’t particularly care to eat? I have a love-hate relationship with kidneys.

If you were to die and come back as a person or a thing, what would it be? Monty Don.

When was the last time you ate out, and where? The Seafood Ristorante in St Andrews for lunch on Saturday.

Are there any mentors or food heroes you would like to thank? David Wilson at The Peat Inn in Fife, for showing me what it’s all about.

What are your favourite books or cookbooks? Fergus Henderson cookbooks and The Great Chefs of France by Anthony Blake.

What is the dish on your own menu that most engages you?
Organic beetroot, Errington’s goat’s curd and candied Californian walnuts.

What do you make from scratch? Everything.

What would you be doing if you weren’t doing what you are doing? Market gardening.

How do you like to spend your day off? A very long ride on my motorcycle without a plan.

What does success mean to you? Being happy with what you’re doing.

What is your current obsession, the thing you think about at 3am? Anticipation of autumnal seasonal ingredients starting to appear.

What are the qualities you most admire in others? Hard work, commitment and sense of humour.

Can you tell us something we don’t know about you? I climbed Ayers Rock when I was twenty-two.

Which three words best describe your cooking style? Simple, uncomplicated, seasonal.

If you could eat only one thing today, what would it be? Lanark Blue cheese.

What do you see when you think of the cuisine of your own country? Shellfish.

Which producer or supplier really brightens your day? Patricia at Phantassie Organics.

Which words or phrases do you most overuse? Where’s that from?

Which talent would you most like to have? Calligraphy – my handwriting’s awful.

If you could change one thing about yourself, what would it be? I wish I’d studied harder at school.

What do you think the food of the future will look like? I’d like to think it would be more local and sustainable.

Do you have a motto or mantra? Taste, taste, taste.

What is your number one sustainability tip or trick? Don’t ever waste food: if it’s edible, use it.

Neil Forbes, Cafe St Honoré)Neil Forbes, Cafe St Honoré)


10 October 2019

Brown butter madeleines with local buckwheat honey ice cream.

03 October 2019

A delicious asian-inspired steak recipe by Chef Melissa Palinkas you simply can't go past