“Locality is very important to us. We use a number of local farmers to supply our restaurant – some who grow only one crop per year, and when it’s over we won’t hear from them for another nine months.”

Oysters, natural or wood-grilled with finger lime dressing; roast chestnuts with cippolini onions, rye crumb and smoked potato; and wood-grilled South Coast calamari with romesco, Mallorquina salami, and almonds.

At Temporada, menu inspiration can strike suddenly. Chef Dave Young will be driving somewhere and suddenly notice the wild produce around him: fennel flowers, blackberries growing out of control, apples all along the road to Cooma. So even just getting from A to B, he’ll draw on the natural landscape. He also sources ingredients directly from hero farmers like Emily Yarra and Michael Kobier, who run Brightside Produce and Owen and Noreen Pidgeon at Loriendale Orchard, for “the best strawberries you will ever taste, and incredible pears and apples“, says Young.

It’s why this wood-fired, wine-oriented city bistro (city sister to Aubergine) is packed from breakfast to lunch to dinner. The cooking is poised, seasonal, and well-judged – right down to knowing that when it comes to a great Wapengo oyster, to leave well enough alone.

“There continues to be a lot to like about this city fringe restaurant ... from its funky staff, to a sophisticated-yet-relaxed menu, the adventurous wine list and even right down to the cutlery.”

Canberra Times