“At both Magill Estate Restaurant and Magill Estate Kitchen we love to work with new and exciting South Australian ingredients to create innovative dishes and deliver a fine dining experience like no other.”

Wagyu beef cooked over coal; grilled porcini mushrooms with celeriac and beef tongue; and mud crab with konbu butter with tomato and basil.

Magill Estate seems to float above the magnificent Penfold vineyards, its massive windows taking in panoramic views of the city of Adelaide.

And yes, of course, the wine is the hero, but behind Scott Huggins’s highly seasonal, beautifully considered tasting menu are heroes of another kind, such as Scott de Bruin of Mayura Station, whose two different cuts of full-blood Wagyu redefine luxury for the estate’s guests, and John Delanie of Hahndorf Venison. Aylesbury ducks come from Barry Sleep in Meningie, and heritage pigs from Boston Bay Smallgoods. In fact, Huggins estimates that as much as eighty per cent of the menu comes directly from local farmers.

Seasonal ingredients such as mushrooms, watercress, herbs, and flowers are foraged, and the kitchen composts anything that moves for its own backyard garden.

The faultless service and a matched wine list that includes a glass of the famous Penfolds Grange are further cause for celebration.

“You have to have a glass of Grange. It’d be rude not to.” goodfood.com.au