“We work directly with fishers and local growers in order to highlight Tasmanian produce.”

Chargrilled black-lip abalone with guanciale, fermented shiitake, and abalone liver sauce; wood-roasted eggplant with octopus head, XO sauce, and pickled leek flowers; and raw eleven-year-old Holstein dairy cow with yellow miso, buckwheat, and salted watermelon radish.

Let’s put it simply: Franklin changed Hobart. This is the restaurant that took a proudly parochial stance – using only what is in the immediate environment and treating it with simple flair – and is dining’s “now” moment.

It helps, of course, that the space in central Hobart is a study in understated industrial chic, with the best seats in the house ranging around the open kitchen with the Scotch oven at its heart.

Since taking the reins last year, Chef Analiese Gregory has only continued founding Chef David Moyle’s programme. Tasmania’s distinct seasons mean things change at short notice. Those squid noodles with octopus-head XO sauce in a squid tentacle broth with roasted kohlrabi? Here today, gone tomorrow – but replaced by something equally inventive.

Really, Franklin is more than a restaurant; it’s a sense of place. An incredibly special place.

“The kitchen is working to the rhythm of the seasons, taking what nature offers and dealing with what it takes away.”

–Max Brearley, Delicious