“Vegetables are at the heart of what we do, and we are happy to be called veg nerds. We hope to bridge the gap between aspiration and reality; to make a turnip or courgette exciting and to prevent a cardoon or artichoke from being intimidating. We’re not vegetarian, but meat and fish are used as a seasoning and organic seasonal veg is the star of every dish.”

Leek and ramsom gribiche; purple sprouting broccoli, tahini and dukkah; and beetroot thoran with cashew nut butter.

We all know that eating less meat is the key to the future of humanity, whether we are talking about the health of each individual or the health of the planet. We also know that ubiquitous compulsory vegetarianism is not the answer. The answer is less meat. Not none. Less. Like at lunch in this very Eden, where five or six eye-popping, unforgettable veg dishes are served up at communal tables along with a gleaming meat dish of which you really need take only a little. Maybe a fifth of your full meal intake. This is made possible by the quality of the veg they grow, through which you are invited to take a tour before you eat. Do – it will change your life. As will a spoonful of any of their utterly historic desserts.