“Keep warm by the fires, stay cool on the terrace, all year round there’s somewhere to unwind. It is important to us to source produce as local to us as possible and to cut down on the journey from field to fork – because the produce is going to taste better. We buy baby vegetables from three miles up the road, keeping the money in the local economy and establishing long-lasting and great relationships with the growers.”

Wild sea bass with saffron sauce, clams, crab, samphire, and courgette; skirt steak with sour cream, blue cheese, asparagus, pickled shallot, and potato; and tagliatelle with brown shrimp, broad beans, peas, rocket, lemon, and crème fraîche.

A serious early-modern coaching inn with an elm bar, oak beams everywhere (mind your head), ancient meandering floors, open fires, and food sourced in what we now think of as the most modern, progressive way but which, you are reminded in this delicious temple to Old Suffolk, is the way some people have been doing it for a thousand years.