“With a strong farming background, we appreciate the industry needs to be sustainable. For example, when we sold raw milk we bought all the surplus to make yoghurt, and when we made butter we made a cocktail with buttermilk. We buy whole animals from a small local abattoir. By nature, we have to find a role for all of the animals on our menu and market. We have fishmongers, butchers, greengrocers, bakeries, cheesemongers, masters of wine, charcuteries, and general stores onsite. We all work together to create a shopping and restaurant experience from a time of pre-industrialized food production.”

Courgette flowers with garden weeds and honey; duck breast with ground elder and salsa; and rabbit with black pudding and wild garlic dumplings.

This old railway was transformed in the early 2000s into a farmers’ market where real people do their daily shop. But people love the handmade macaroons, too, and the slow-proved bread, local beer, cheese, and charcuterie, and the hairy, grubby, misshapen vegetables that we all know are far better for you than the ones that are round and shiny and look like the picture in the book. Each day, between 5.30 p.m. and 7 p.m., these are sold off at knockdown prices.

“I genuinely love the market in a draughty old railway goods shed in Canterbury ... the restaurant here has never let me down.” –Marina O’loughlin, The Guardian