“The Four Horsemen is only a forty-seat restaurant but has over 450 wines on its list along with vintage amari and other low-intervention drinks. By low-intervention, we not only refer to the rise of so-called ‘natural wines’... but also wines made in ancient ways... that put the grapes and place they represent first and foremost. We feel it is important to offer these wines in conjunction with our food as they were meant to be, to be enjoyed together.”

Chicken wings and liver skewers with shichimi togarashi; Montauk fluke with English peas, trout roe, and herb juice; spring garlic sausage with grilled asparagus and morels.

It’s a bit hard to tell if this Williamsburg spot is a wine bar masquerading as a restaurant or the other way around. No matter, it is worthy of a visit for adventurous diners and enophiles alike. Dishes from Chef Nick Curtola like grilled fish collar with a spicy Thai dipping sauce and herb salad, warm house bread with cultured butter, and Sasso chicken prepared two ways, capture one of the more exciting waves in New York’s dining scene. Anything goes, as long as it goes with wine. And, there’s a great deal of it to choose from: 450 bottles to be exact. Wine neophytes are in good hands with staff who graciously help make sense of the list of natural and low-intervention wines.