We caught up with sustainable fisherman, Iki-jime master and ethical fishing activist Mark Eather to discuss sustainable fishing, the impact of overfishing on the environment, and how we can improve the seafood industry

Mark Eather was raised on a farm in New South Wales, Australia and began fishing as a small child. After meeting a Japanese fisherman one day, he began to learn the Ike-jime method of fishing and selling fish killed with this method first internationally, then locally. A fisherman of more than forty years, Mark is driven to educate others about sustainable fishing and actively holds authorities and governments to account when it comes to ethical fishing.

You have been an advocate for sustainable, ethical fishing for many years. What initially fuelled your interest in this? The inspiration is driven by my absolute passion for Mother Nature, our oceans, its wonderful natural resources and genuine artisanal fishing. The devotion is driven by what is actually happening behind the smoke and mirrors that the industry ‘horse-traders’, mass catchers, administrators and politicians orchestrate, entirely intended to dupe and mislead the consuming public. The average punter has no idea and deserves better. The industry gets away with it, because the average consumer can’t actually see what actually happens. A vast majority of the industry participants, administrators and politicians don’t want you to know, as they all have vested interests to maintain the smoke and mirrors.

You are known for your use of the Iki-jime technique. Can you explain what this technique entails and describe its benefits? In precis, the technique is all about the minimisation of stress… "catch it quick, kill it quick and chill it quick”. Many will relate to that strong smell of fish when cooking seafood, even though they may have caught it fresh that day. What you are tasting or smelling is an amino acid equivalent to our adrenalin, released proportionate to the stress created within that fish/seafood.

The Japanese developed the Iki-jime technique via the fact that their staple consumption is naturally raw – not masked with sauces and condiments – so even the slightest ‘tainting’ of the flesh is quite noticeable and offensive to them. Of course, the same pristine attributes are evident when cooked also – in fact, one of my favourite things to do during masterclasses is to ask the audience to try to smell fish right over the cooking pan. And my absolute favourite is to wait until everyone has finished their meal and ask ‘who can taste fish in their after-palate?’. I personally am of the belief that everything destined for our plates suffers from induced stress – and is noticeably deleterious to the overall dining experience.

How does sustainable fishing impact the environment? It simply doesn’t. When we are finished, Mother Nature doesn’t even know that we have been there – our efforts have a zero footprint. Mass-catch operators often leave an Armageddon behind…you just can’t see it. If it were to be conducted terrestrially (on land], it would create an outrage – as it is absolutely no different to the felling of old growth forest.

What are some of the common misconceptions about over-fishing? All of the above really… the selfishness, self-interest and greed is just appalling – of course there are ‘pet scientists’ and ‘spin doctors’ everywhere in this game – that will ‘pluck’ quotes and figures – or outright lie to justify their position on this very contentious subject. I take a very different, long-term and practical approach to the subject. I ask you to consider the following.

Recreational fishing is more popular every year, with many more participants yearly and exponentially more ‘hook hours’ fished in a vastly greater fishing area. Why is it then that fishing clubs globally report smaller records, on an almost direct sliding scale down for the past fifty years? Further, why is it that numerous Northern Hemisphere-registered fishing vessels are now fishing in the Southern Hemisphere – being heavily subsidised by their own governments?

What should people look for when purchasing seafood? Are there specific logos or stickers that ensure a product has been sourced ethically and sustainably? Demand honesty and integrity from your fishmonger – ask which fisherman caught the product and how – if they stumble in their response to you, just walk away – to have that rapport they must know. Aside from that, the physical attributes, eyes, colour, full rigor mortis, ‘no-fish smell’ when cooking, and lack of ‘fishy after-palate’ are your ultimate confirmations that you can trust them.

Unfortunately, there are no such labels – or stickers at the moment. It is worth noting that there are a number of global three capital letter, abbreviated Sustainable and Ethical Certifications that many large organisations champion as their ‘Gold Standard’. Despicably, those certifications are paid for; they are not autonomously granted. In fact, there are numerous unscrupulous mass-catch operators certified as such, because they can afford to pay for that particular certification. But there are genuine artisanal, sustainable and ethical operators that are not certified, purely because they can’t possibly afford to pay for it.

And what should they avoid?
Dishonest fishmongers, anything that is mass-caught, or that does not befit the above.

Many of the Australian restaurants in TL&CC listed you as a key supplier. While it’s great to see the restaurant industry acknowledging the importance of sustainable sourcing, how can home cooks be more sustainable? Be serious about what actually goes on your plate. Listen closely to the artisan, and most importantly – taste the difference. Also, truly answer the following – what is the bargain? A plate full of an average experience that you half eat… or for the same price, 100g of an exquisite experience where you want people to look away so that you can lick the plate clean?

How else can we be more sustainable in our food choices in general? For many decades I have had the pleasure of being able to deal with numerous exceptional chefs globally. It is with great pleasure that I have observed some of them evolve into extraordinary chefs with an absolute devotion to the ethics outlined above. They genuinely want to provide their diners with the most exquisite experience possible, and believe in simply letting the produce speak for itself on the plate. There is a reason why these chefs are endlessly in search of that holy grail ingredient, exuding that perfect flavour burst and with a zero footprint. It is called respect, absolute dedication and great passion. To listen to them and their like-minded suppliers would be a great start for us all.

Is there anything you would like to add? Change will come from an honestly educated consumer… not from the bulk of this industry and certainly not from politicians. If there is no demand for non-sustainable seafood catch nor environmentally-damaging harvest techniques – then of course, those industry participants will have no option than to alter their harvest techniques.

News: other things you need to know

• Fogo Island Inn, Newfoundland, Canada, will be celebrating New Year’s Eve with an evening of poetry, song, exquisite dining, music, caviar tastings and pairings by the king of caviar himself, Cornel Ceapa, of Acadian Sturgeon and Caviar, purveyors of sustainably farmed and fished products out of Saint John River. Guests will be among the first in North America to welcome in 2019 on Newfoundland's singular time zone – a full hour-and-a-half before the countdown in Times Square. A New Year spent on the powerful North Atlantic coast invites quiet reflection and fresh perspectives amidst natural wonders. Visit fogoislandinn.ca to book.
• The James Beard Foundation has updated its rules and regulations in an effort to diversify its awards. “The idea is to make it more indicative of who is working in the industry and that people are doing what they should be doing,” Atlanta chef Anne Quatrano, who oversees the awards, told The New York Times. As part of the update, the volunteer committees behind the selection process and the judges of the award recipients must be at least as diverse as the United States’ population. - This Sunday, 28 October, Daniel Calvert of Hong Kong’s Belon will join Sydney restaurant Sixpenny for a special lunch. Taking over the Sixpenny kitchen, Calvert will create a six-course tasting menu showcasing his own take on French cuisine.