“We don’t buy fruit or vegetables. Our ninety-year-old orchard and heirloom vegetable garden, which is grown from last year’s saved seeds, writes the menu for us.”

Raw garden vegetables with cottage cheese and whey dressing; carrot with heritage Wagin chicken; and Jindong Free Range pork with creamed greens.

The first-floor restaurant at Jarrahdale winery Millbrook isn’t like other restaurants. It’s only open for five lunches a week. There’s no new-fangled sous vide machine in the kitchen, and Chef Guy Jeffreys is self-sufficient in fruits and vegetables.

In spite of – or perhaps because of – all this, Millbrook is one of the most rewarding and thoughtful dining experiences west of the Nullabor.

The tight edit of dishes is a direct reflection of what was picked that day from the property’s sprawling organic kitchen garden. Vividly green broccolini, for instance, is simply grilled and served with a glorious salsa that upcycles edible weeds and brassica trim. Meanwhile, carrot – roasted, raw, and pickled – shares headliner status with rare-breed chicken prepared three ways.

A strong DIY philosophy applies to sourdough, butter, vinegar, wine, even non-alcoholic drinks, and Millbrook’s novel No Waste Monday lunches, utilizing excess perishables, are a brilliant way to “waste” Mondays.

"At a time when so many people like to talk the #seasonal and #localproduce talk, it’s heartening to find a chef that not only walks the walk but plants the plants." –Max Veenhuyzen, Broadsheet