“I source the best produce available, developing long relationships with local suppliers and producers so I can invite customers to enjoy food the way I love it the most.”

Must charcuterie plate with celeriac remoulade; Linley Valley pork cheek with apple, quince, Goldfields honey, and farro crisp; and Grilled Shark Bay prawns with skordalia and red pepper and lemon salsa.

In the mood for French? This lively barslash bistro still knows how to fulfil Parisian fantasies. Must’s charcuterie plate has been a benchmark for porky upcycling since the doors opened in 2001, while the menu speaks fluent baguette, frites and chocolate mousse.

But it’s a new-found focus on the modern and the Australian that denotes this local dining veteran as a restaurant to keep watching. Russell Blaikie has long championed West Australian ingredients: his producerdriven, share-friendly dishes show off the depth of his little black book of producers, from specialist asparagus growers, the Marshalls, in the south of the state to responsibly caught Shark Bay prawns from fishers in the north west. Most dishes are gluten-free, and the vegetable paella of rain-fed (nonirrigated) rice is a vegan drawcard. The cheeseboard is proudly all-Australian, while the wine makes local champions available by the glass.

“Sometimes you just want very wellcooked bistro food, no fuss, great wines, polished service and a stiff napkin. Must nails it.” –Rob Broadfield, The West Australian