“Our life’s work has lead us to this place: serving simple, honest food made with the freshest, most sustainable produce. The best Australia has to offer, which doesn’t cost the earth because it doesn’t need to.”

Hand-dived New South Wales sea urchin; crisp-fried Clarence River school prawns; and hot-smoked whole blue Ulladulla mackerel with pomelo, shaved fennel salad, and coriander pesto.

After a decade on the scene, love.fish is a now a small fish in the big pond of Barangaroo, a six-star Green Star precinct with its own wastewater-recycling system.

The sustainable seafood menu here hooks diners’ attention, with the provenance of every underwater creature accounted for and cooking methods kept simple. For instance, Greg Finn’s hand-dived New South Wales sea urchin – often dismissed as a pest – is transformed with lemon, salt, and bread.

Working with Costa 'Con' Nemitas of Martins United Seafoods, Michael Milkovic focuses on lesser-known species with healthy stock levels, prawns that are MSC-certified, and line-caught and sustainably harvested local seafood from best-practice fishers such as Chris Bolton from Cairns, a reef guardian.

Takeaway trade is brisk, and ensuring all packaging is biodegradable is integral to the restaurant’s waste management.

“A focus on sustainability, simple cooking techniques applied to quality produce, and a dedication to Australia’s lesser-known edible sea creatures.”

Broadsheet.com.au