“We are committed to locally sourced sustainable seafood, and encouraging people to eat a broader pool of fish outside of the more popular species. We have recipes for every single part, from the liver to the blood, bones and even the scales.”

Fourteen day-aged Tin Can Bay bar cod with sugarloaf cabbage, celeriac, and XO sauce; barbecue bass grouper belly with pepperberry yoghurt, whey flatbread, herb salad, and chutney; and Corner Inlet yellow-eye mullet grilled over fig leaves with fig dressing.

Josh Niland once turned cobia fat into a dessert: a chocolate-caramel slice garnished with fish scales and fennel, actually. It’s true, he’s ultra-creative about seafood waste at his hyper-specialist restaurant. Under-utilized fish, sustainable species, and maximising seafood scraps drive Saint Peter’s scale-to-tail menu: XO is made with Bar Cod offal, while John Dory liver is pan-fried and served on toast. With by-products (fish stock, fish pies) at the nearby Fish Butchery, there’s very little left for the bin.

If fish has a future, this is it. Direct relationships with suppliers. The use of whole fish, not just fillets. Dry-aging in static coolrooms to intensify flavour. The fisherfolk telling the chef what to put on the menu, not the other way around. And pure, unadulterated flavour.

“He’s mindful of waste, plays with the accents given by native plants, and has a deft way with fish offal ... happy to let his ingredients be the stars.” –Pat Nourse, Gourmet Traveller