“Our whole team has a passion for sustainable produce, and we are committed to using every part of every ingredient to minimize waste. We support local organic farmers who use rotate crops, therefore eliminating the need for chemicals, as certain vegetables create natural fertiliser in the soil.”

Lamb tartare with sweet potato jam, oyster emulsion, and rye; poached Clarence River prawns with pickled rose, black garlic, and cardamom powder; and duck breast with rhubarb and bay leaf.

Collins Quarter makes a great entrance: visitors pass through an ornate nineteenth-century Victorian terrace into a modern glass-and-steel addition replete with magnoliashaded courtyard.

Another surprise is the menu. Chef Luke Headon is well versed in the ethical economy after years of toil at UK hotspots Restaurant Story and The Fat Duck, arriving here with a strong local-produce mantra (“Within a 150-kilometre radius“) and the ultimate aim of a zero-waste kitchen.

Less-loved ocean species (hello, duckfish) are a focus. Cuttlefish gets its moment in the sun in a crab salad with smoked avocado and blood orange, while zucchini stars in a tangle of tagliatelle with sweet peas and mint butter. From its nose to its tail, this is one thoroughly modern brasserie.

“We love this upscale pub at the fancy end of town ... putting out some very serious food with a locally sourced and seasonally changing bent.”

Time Out Melbourne