“Our aim is to give diners an experience comparable to the high standard of Melbourne hospitality without the need for the consumption of our furry and feathered friends.”

Char-grilled king oyster mushrooms with confit garlic and roast pine nut purée; cumin-braised eggplant; and saffron ricotta gnocchi with fresh peas and cultured butter.

It’s the restaurant Melbourne’s growing tribe of vegetarians and vegans deserve: smart enough for the special night out, casual enough for cocktails and carry-on and food that sashays with style despite (or due to?) the absence of animal protein or its mock meat faux-cousin. Dairy will pop up occasionally (and can be removed from most dishes with a word to the waiter) in, for instance, the signature gnocchi that’s almost too pretty to eat. Steamed bao stuffed with a fried piece of smoked tofu, pickled cucumber, and a bright gochujang mayo is one of those “I can’t believe it’s not meat” moments. It’s lovely to see vegetables as heroes instead of pretending to be something else: a vibrant slow-roasted tomato tartare and pickled shimeji with taro chips for scooping creates its own exciting new oeuvre. All this and booze, too: Ayurvedic elixirs, Northside Negronis and vegan, organic, biodynamic wines.

“This allergy-aware, greenhouse-styled, graffiti-bombed converted warehouse space is fashionable, but don’t worry, eating here is fun, even for omnivores.”

goodfood.com.au