“Seeing a plant grow from a seed, harvested and then placed on the plate is something that every person should see. Growing all of our own produce has changed our outlook on life.”

Zero-waste pumpkin; “soil”, a dessert made of spent grains, chocolate, citrus, and other usually wasted ingredients; and radish.

It’s a radish. Yes, a simple radish. And it forms one of the dishes the Bertoncello brothers are most proud of at their singular labour-of-love restaurant. It’s the product of five weeks’ nurturing at their nearby farm, which supplies all of their fresh produce. Once harvested, the entire plant is put in a pan with hot oil and lightly blistered, finished with lemon juice and salt, and served with Butterfly Factory labneh. It’s a deeply symbolic dish that closes the gap between farming and cooking.

The farm is the restaurant​ and vice versa. An ever-changing, elegant degustation menu lionises the vegetable and restricts meat (ethical, of course) to a bit player. You will eat things like cabbage leaf, baked and stuffed with pickled kohlrabi and anointed with swede flowers, and zucchini flour mini-fruit tart. And it will be good.

“They dry grapes, pickle green tomatoes, dehydrate berries. They’re mad for growing their own produce, for foraging, and they’re enthused about wine – particularly the local stuff and smaller producers.”

–Michael Harden, Gourmet Traveller