“We aim to provide an eating experience for our customers and an enjoyable place for our staff to work, and to have great relationships with our local farmers and suppliers. We get our fish pretty much exclusively from Brighton and Newhaven Fish Sales (BNFS), who are big advocates for sustainable fishing. When a certain fish is in abundance, for example, we will buy this and put it on the menu.”

Monkfish ceviche with blood orange and chilli; charred hispi cabbage with almond crumb and shaved Spenwood cheese; and smoked braised ox tongue with marinated tomatoes and wild garlic pesto.

There is a wonderfully urgent atmosphere here, in a sexy little room at the heart of the Brighton Lanes. Devotees crowd the small corner bar watching local superstar Michael Bremner at work, piling impeccably chosen Sussex specialties onto cute, eclectic plates of grey, blue, black... whatever suits. Flavours are sharp and bold, the attitude is muscular and uncompromising, the cooking, on a good day, is out of this world. This is super-sustainable Brighton at its gastronomic best.