“Our restaurant is a real, live demonstration that zero waste is a natural system and utterly achievable. We work closely with all our local suppliers from food to beer to our potter, Mark. All our produce is organic and our weekly foraging allows us to harvest the natural bounty in Brighton.”

Tiny potatoes with whey, blackcurrants, and fennel pollen (highlights flaws in the industrial system, throwing away tiny potato pearls and whey); broccoli with seaweed (championing the idea that to maximize resources is to minimize waste); and carrots cooked in lemon compost (highlights waste as an opportunity).

The energy and commitment that has gone into this place are reflected perfectly by the muscular, postindustrial space it inhabits, the strapping, tattoo’d chefs, and the thumping nose-to-tail approach to meat-cooking in a place that, given its zero-tolerance environmental fervour, you might have dumbly assumed was going to be vegetarian. Far from it. On our visit they were clearly getting to the end of an ox, because we were served not only the tail but part of the heart, sliced and seared, clean-tasting, muscular and super-delicious, with excellent horseradish mash. Chairs are made from pulped wood waste and soapless hand washing is done under “intelligent taps“. Silo does it all.